The Paper Barn Groveport,Ohio

The Paper Barn
4865 Hendron Road
P.O. Box 325
Groveport, Ohio 43125


Cleaning Tips Page
A page dedicated to helping you keep your
living and working enviroment clean

Spot & Stain Removal Kit

To assemble your spotting kit,  you will need the following items.

Baby diapers or terry cloth towels
1 Spray bottle with sprayer filled with clean water

Spray bottles with trigger sprayers filled with the following products:
1 "Enzyme" Cleaning Solution - (LNZ36 Liquid Enzyme Spotter, Digestant & Deodorizer)
1 "All Purpose" Carpet Spot Remover - (Target -Carpet  Spot & Stain Remover)
1 "Citrus/Oxygen Bleach Product - (Citri-San - Citrus Cleaner w/Hydrogen Peroxide)

1 Spotting Brush
1 Plastic putty knife or bone carpet tool
1 Steam iron

How to remove a pet stain from carpet.

Pet Odor & Stain Removal

      For most of us with pets, We know how easy it us for them to have an "accident" once in a while.
So to treat this spot or stain just follow these easy steps.

1) Assemble a pet stain kit with the following 2 or 3 terry cloth towels or cloth diapers, 1 bottle with sprayer filled with clean water, 1 bottle and sprayer of enzyme spot & stain remover (try our SS30 Enzymatic Spot & Stain remover), 1 steam iron filled with distilled water, 1 toothbrush or carpet spotting brush.
2) Take Enzyme Spot remover and spray spot liberally. Allow to sit for as long as 24 hours. Cover with plastic sheeting, tarp or anything to slow down the drying process.  Try to keep the stain wet for as long as possible.  The longer you leave the enzyme on the stain, the better it will work.. Take toothbursh and agitate gently in a circular motion while trying not enlarge the spot.

3) Lay terry cloth towel or diaper on the spot and press down with hand or foot. This is called blotting. Do not rub or move the towel just press down.
4) After removing most of the moisture with the towel, take the spray bottle with clean water and spray area until wet. Take a clean towel and lay it flat on top of spot ot stain. Take a steam iron on a low steam setting and iron the spot for a few seconds giving extra steam as necessary. Do this for a minute or two.
5) Using same towel , blot once again the steam and clean water.
6) Repeat if necessary.

You should have a clean carpet or upholstery. Some stains are set and will never come clean. 98% of them should come out with a little work.


How to remove coffee stains from carpet

Coffee stains can be removed easily using this method. The stain can be removed much more easily if not allowed to dry.  Blot the stain with a clean white cloth to remove any excess liquid.  Mix a teaspoon of a good dishwashing detergent, such as Dawn, with a cup of lukewarm water.  Sponge the area with the dishwashing solution, then blot again with your clean white cloth. Next, mix 1/3 cup of white vinegar with 2/3 cup of lukewarm water.  Once again sponge the area with this solution, and blot again with a clean white cloth. Rinse with clean water, and launder as soon as possible, following the care label instructions. Carpeting can be cleaned using the above method and ingredients.

  1. Mix one teaspoon of a mild ph balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water
  2. Blot
  3. Mix one third cup of white household vinegar with two thirds cup of water
  4. Blot
  5. Sponge with clean water
  6. Blot

Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent .

Coffee Stains sometimes require a more professional approach.  I suggest using any professional strength carpet spot remover that is specifically used for tannin removal.  Coffee, tea and other like items have a specific chemical compound that require a tannin remover.  Always use our products according to directions.

How to clean stains on carpet and upholstery.

Click here for our carpet cleaning chemical product line.

Click here for our carpet machine product line.

Proper care of your floor prevents damage, extends its life and keeps it looking new for years. How do you properly care for your carpet?

If you enjoy going barefoot, or even if you don't, kick your shoes off at the door. Why remove your shoes? If you have a rough board that needs smoothing, you grab a sheet of sandpaper for the job. Guess what's on the bottom of your shoes? Sand and dirt grind away at the fibers in your carpet, leading to an early death.

Take a closer look at the bottoms of those shoes and you'll find oil, dirt and heaven only knows how many bits of leftover dog deposits. Small wonder why your carpet stubbornly refuses to come clean. Do wear slippers or socks inside. The oil from the bottom of your feet also dirties the carpet.

1: Vacuum your carpet regularly.  The more you vacuum the longer your carpet will last. 

2: When you use liquid carpet shampoos in an extraction shampoo machine, make sure you empty the solution tank and go over your carpet once or twice with clean water. Ever wash your hair and forget to rinse out all the shampoo? The same thing happens to your carpet. The shampoo can't be completely rinsed out, leaving a sticky residue. That residue acts like a big magnet pulling the dirt from the bottom of your shoes. Now you have clean shoes and even dirtier carpets.

3: The best method I have found to clean a carpet and/or area rug is by using a "Dry Foam" shampoo with a rotary brush machine and tank (Click here for example).  Then use an extraction shampoo machine for getting out old shampoo.Rent a shampoo machine that cleans with water. Mix 1 cup vinegar per 2 ½ gallons of water and clean according to directions. Go back over the carpet with warm water only. The vinegar pulls out the old shampoo, cleaning the carpet as well. It may take a time or two, but your carpets will be soft and free from grime. The hot water reactivates the shampoo already in the carpet, providing the needed cleansing action.

4: Stains in carpet can be a hassle to remove. Never rub a stain, just blot. Rubbing breaks down the fibers and spreads the stain. Remove most food stains with shaving cream. Spray on and resist the temptation to rub it in, then let it set for 15 minutes. Rinse with a vinegar and water solution.

Stain Removal

Oops, the dog had an accident and the stain and smell refuse all attempts at removal. First try an enzyme product. Pour on enough to saturate to the pad and treat an area twice as large as the stain. Urine hits the pad and spreads. Let it set a couple of hours. You'll find enzyme products here.

Should that not remove all the stain or odor, baking soda and peroxide remain your best hope. (Or use our 3M ScotchGuard "OXY Carpet Cleaner".)  Mix a 30/70 solution of peroxide to water adding 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda per cup of mixture. Yes, it bubbles and fizzles, but not before removing the stain and smell. Always test a spot first for colorfastness. Peroxide is bleach and may discolor the carpet. Blot up what you can with an old towel and rinse well with 1/3 cup vinegar per quart of water.

If you see red spots on your carpet where your pet just lost its lunch, switch food to a neutral colored food. The red dye in pet food is the culprit behind those spots. Dogs and cats are colorblind, so they can't tell the difference.  Use the 30/70 peroxide and water combination below for removal.

Red Dye Stains - Club soda generally removes red wine stains. Remove red dye stains (found in drink mixes, Popsicles, dog and cat food) with a 30/70 solution of peroxide to water. (Or use our 3M ScotchGuard "OXY Carpet Cleaner".) well too.   Remember, peroxide is an "oxygen bleach", so test an inconspicuous spot first for color fastness. Apply the mixture, wait 30 minutes, then remove as much moisture as possible and rinse with a vinegar/water solution. If the stain remains, add a bit more peroxide to the mixture and retreat.

Grease & Oil Stains 

Brake cleaner also does a good quick job of removing most food stains. Dab a little on a clean cloth and gently blot the stain. Rinse with soap and water. Brake cleaner contains the same chemical professional dry cleaners use to clean stains in clothing. Do not pour brake cleaner directly into the carpet. It could dissolve the adhesive holding the fibers in the carpet.

Oil, grease, magic marker and ink can be the dickens to remove. D-Limonene is the major component of the oil extracted from citrus rind. Any D-Limonene based product will do the job We carry Motsenbockers Lift Off #2. A low-VOC formula removes chewing gum, adhesives, labels, grease, tar, motor oil, tree sap, crayon, candle wax and oil-based foods from carpet, fabric, vinyl and virtually any hard surface.

Most janitorial companies or department stores carry a product called DeSolvit or other orange type cleaning product . WD-40 also works wonders at removing these stubborn stains. Rubbing alcohol also removes pen ink. Blot on, allow to set 30 minutes and blot to remove. Rinse with sudsy water.

Magic marker is generally permanent and you may not be able to remove it. Time to call a professional, or replace the carpet.

Gum - Freeze gum with ice cubes and chip off what you can with the blunt side of a kitchen knife. Citrus diLimonene products will remove the rest.  

Wax - Freeze with ice and chip off what you can with the blunt side of a knife. Wax needs heat for removal. Some of the newer carpets are quite sensitive to heat and scorch easily, so test an out of the way spot first. You can also use a hair dryer set to the hottest setting.

Set your iron to a low to medium heat. The less heat you use, the less chance of scorching your carpet. Take a white paper towel or paper bag with no writing on it (the dye will transfer to the carpet) Put the towel down on top of the wax and iron the towel for no longer than two seconds. Move the towel and redo if necessary. Generally once is enough.

How to properly clean carpets and area rugs.

The two most important things you can do to keep your carpet clean are:

1)  Vacuum, Vacuum, Vacuum .......... and then Vacuum again.

2)  Entrance mats at every entrance.

    To keep your carpet clean, it is important to clean up spills as they happen. Blot up the spill immediately using a cloth diaper or a terry cloth towel. Do not rub as this will force the spill deeper into the carpet. There are several ways to clean spills that have turned into stains:

 1)for fresh stains, use plain club soda. Pour a bit on the spot(don't soak it), let it foam and sizzle and let set for a few seconds. Sponge up thoroughly.

2)for older stains, combine 2 tablespoons detergent, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and one quart warm water. Work into stain and blot dry.

3) When you are done with #1 and  #2 and found out that using normal household items on stains such as coffee, tea, rust, kool aid, wine, blood, motor oil and tar among many many others simply won't work but you just had to try it, then it is time to invest in a proffesional carpet spot remover product.  There are many out there but the line by "CORE PRODUCTS" is the one we recommend.  Click here for more information.

     To keep your carpet in good condition, deep clean/shampoo about once a year. If you have pets and/or children, you may want to shampoo more often. There are several ways to deep clean your carpet: with an aerosol spray foam cleaner from the supermarket (on a scale of 1 to 10  this is a 2), a home carpet shampooer(scale: 4), a hot water extraction shampoo machine you rent at the supermarkets(scale: 8), and professional carpet cleaners(scale: 6 to 10).

Before any of these processes, blot up fresh and older stains with methods previously mentioned. It is important to vacuum thoroughly. By thoroughly, you should go over the same spot at least 2-3 times with the vacuum. It is best to take all of the furniture out of the room, if possible. If not, you could move furniture to one side, shampoo that section and let dry 24 hours. Then move the furniture to the other side and repeat the process.

If your carpet is not overly soiled, you could try  "Dry Foam" carpet cleaning. This is used with a tank sprayer and a small rotary brush machine.  Simply spray the DRY FOAM Shampoo on the carpet, agitate with the rotary brush machine with a nylon carpet brush and allow it to dry.  After it dries, the foam turns into a crystalline powder that is then removed by a thorough vacuuming.  (Before using, you may want to check for colorfastness. You do this by spraying a small piece of carpet with the cleaner. Leave for awhile, then rub with a white towel.) 


Home shampooers are also appropriate for carpets that are not heavily soiled. With most home shampooers, you fill a reservoir with water and carpet shampoo. You can also do the colorfast test with this shampoo. You move the shampooer across the carpet as you do with a vacuum, but you also use a sprayer button to spray the cleaning solution onto the carpet. Next, go over the shampooed area without spraying to rinse. Some machines may have suction to absorb the water from the carpet and some do not. When home shampooing, be sure not to overwet the carpet or it could soak through to the backing and possibly even the floor below.  


   If you use a two step process, You will achieve the most effective results,  Nothing, and I do mean NOTHING,  ever comes clean without agitation (scrubbing).  If you were to use a rotary brush machine with a mild shampoo and THEN rinse the carpet with a hot water extraction shampoo filled with plain water, you will achieve the best results.  Agitation will break the bond of the dirt surrounding the carpet filament better than hot water extraction shampooing alone. Of course, you would first vacuum thoroughly, then pre-treat your stains, etc. etc..... then begin the two part cleaning.

If you choose to use a professional then consider that it is always best to get 2-3 estimates. Be sure to ask if the estimate includes the removal of furniture. Some companies offer discounts if you have more than two carpets to clean.

Cleaning your carpet is an important process. A clean carpet makes the whole room appear cleaner. A clean carpet is also a healthy carpet.  No more dust mites, dead skin and other undesirable items.   It is also important if you want to sell your home. A clean carpet smells fresh and feels softer.

Wood Floor
How to clean & shine a wood floor.

Items Needed
• Scrapers and Knives
• Dust Mop
• Auto Scrubber
• Pads
• Floor Signs/Caution Tape
• Rags
• Buckets and Wringers
• 12 inch lambswool applicator & handle
• paint tray

Chemicals Needed
• Motsenbockers Tape & Gum remover
• Paper Barn "Neutron" neutral pH Cleaner
• Holloway House Floor Wash
• Holloway House Quick Shine

Remove tape, labels, and gum with a razor scraper or putty knife. Angle the blade so you do not damage the finish. Sticker and label residue can be removed with Motsenbockers Tape & Gum Remover.

Dust mop the floor.

Fill Auto Scrubber reservoir or mop bucket with Holloway House Floor Wash diluted at proper ratio's per label.

Liberally apply solution to floor through the auto scrubber (with brushes up and vacuum off) or with mop. Let the solution dwell for approximately five minutes. Keep solution area to about 1,000 square feet.

Double scrub the floor with auto-scrubber equipped with blue or black pads. Be sure to flip or change pads as they pick up soil.

When the entire floor is clean, double rinse the floor with the auto-scrubber equipped with red pads using Paper Barn "Neutron" neutral pH floor cleaner

Inspect the floor. It should be dull and clean. Trace amounts of white residue from the previous finish are OK. If large amounts are present, rinse the floor again. Let the floor completely dry before finish application

Apply Holloway House Quick Shine by using a lambswool applicator and a paint tray. Just pour the Quick Shine into the paint tray and using the lambswool applicator, dip it and squeegee the excess off on the edge of the paint tray. Apply in smooth, even, thin coats.

How to Remove Mold & Mildew in a Shower/Bathtub.

Can anyone tell me how to get rid of mold and mildew in my shower??

Chosen - "Best Answer on Yahoo Answers"

I have horrible mildew in my shower. I cannot get rid of it. Can you tell me on how to clean and kill it? I am desperate!


My answer:         To restore your ceramic tile shower to near perfect condition, you are going to need several things. Get a new scrub brush that has stiff nylon or plastic bristles, a roll of paper towels, a gallon of chlorine bleach, a gallon of white vinegar, a spray bathroom cleaner or ultra mild abrasive cleaner, and your birthday suit. The stains and dirt have taken months to accumulate. Don't think you are going to complete this job in 30 minutes or less. The entire process is going to take place over a period of hours and possibly several days.

The first thing to do is to use the scrub brush to remove as much mildew, dirt, soap film etc. as possible from the tile and grout. Get into the shower and scrub well using lots of water and plenty of cleaner. Rinse often and do whatever is necessary to make the tile surfaces shine like a mirror. Don't worry that the grout is still gray with deeply embedded mildew. We will deal with that shortly.

After this cleaning process, you will probably have some dull stains that won't budge. These are very likely hard water deposits. You will remove those using some paper towels and white vinegar. Saturate some paper towels with the vinegar and place them over the hard water stains. Do this on the floor and any vertical surfaces. The wet paper towels will readily cling to vertical surfaces. Vinegar is a very mild acid and it works slowly but efficiently to dissolve the alkaline water deposits.

Get dressed or put on your robe and go relax for a while. Stop back every hour to make sure the towels are still wet with vinegar. Pull away a towel and scrub the deposits. They may completely wash away. If they do not, pour fresh vinegar on the towels to continue the cleansing chemical reaction. Heavy deposits can take up to eight hours or so to completely melt away. The trick is to keep fresh vinegar on the towels.
Once you have all of the hard water deposits removed, clean the shower again to remove all traces of vinegar. It is now time to attack any residual mildew that has stained the grout. You are going to use the pure chlorine bleach and the remaining paper towels to accomplish this task. Saturate as many towels as necessary and put these in contact with the mildew stained grout. It can take hours and possibly days to bleach out all of the mildew in the grout. Be careful not to splash the chlorine bleach in your eyes or on any fabrics or carpets. It can harm you and it removes color from dyed fabrics.

If you are allergic to chlorine bleach or the chlorine fumes bother you, use oxygen bleach to remove mildew. You use the same techniques as described above, it just might take a little longer. Oxygen bleach is color and fabric safe. It is also excellent for people who have septic systems. Chlorine bleach that escapes from the tub or shower into the drain system can kill beneficial bacteria in the septic tank. Oxygen bleach actually helps this bacteria!

To prevent the staining problem in your shower, it helps to understand mildew. It is an organism that requires food and water to live. Showers and bath areas provide the moisture and you provide the food every time you use soap, shampoo, cream rinse, etc. Even the dirt and oils you wash from your skin and hair are food for mildew. If you minimize or eliminate the food and water, you can eliminate the mildew.

I feel the best way to defeat mildew is to clean the shower every two weeks. Every day after you have showered use a plastic cup to pour clean water down the sides of the tile. Then use a squeegee to quickly wipe down the tiles directing as much water as possible to the shower drain. These two simple steps will remove a huge amount of food and water from the shower each day. When you get ready to leave the bathroom, open the shower curtain or shower door. Keep the bathroom door open as well. You want as much air to circulate in the shower as possible. This will dry all bath surfaces quickly and rob any microscopic mildew spores of water.

How to "really" clean a toilet

Unlike the ads on television, the water line in the toilet bowl should be lowered, and there are at least 4 different ways to accomplish this. A disinfectant or detergent cleaner or bowl cleaner (Click here  for Bowl Cleaners) should be applied to a bowl swab (Click here  for Bowl Swabs)  and starting under the rim working down, cleaning the bowl. Disinfectant/detergent cleaner should be applied to the outside surfaces including the handle and allowed to remain wet for ten minutes for a total kill of bacteria, fungus and virus. Flush the toilet, and rinse the outer surfaces.
     A phosphoric bowl cleaner can be used in toilets with hard water or in extreme hard water conditions. Where the toilet is not cleaned often, or rust stains from pipes,or any other heavy duty problem,  a (HcL) hydrogen chloride based (muratic acid) can be used . Be careful of the fumes that these products can created when using HcL bowl cleaners. And be very careful about dripping it on nylon clothing and carpeting.  Now for the nitty gritty...

Recommended Materials
*Rubber, Latex, Vinyl, Nitrile or Neoprene gloves.  
*Eye Protection
(usually required in cleaning toilets outside the home) *Disinfectant/Detergent/cleaner (any chemical that calls itself a disinfectant and has an E.P.A. number on the label to back-up the claim of being a disinfectant)
*Disposable toweling or launderable cloth
*Toilet Bowl Mop / Bowl Swab  - 12-inch long plastic handle with a Acryllic Yarn (bunny tail material at the end approximately 4-inches in diameter), Strong I-beam 12-Inch plastic handle  Plastic squeegee cup is optional but it effectively and safely damp dries swab head without exposing hands to dirty water and cleaning chemicals.

Optional Materials
Acid based bowl cleaner depending on the hardness of water and/or frequency of cleaning. The following are different types of acid based bowl cleaners.
Citric Acid - safest to use but slowest to remove mineral deposits
Phosphoric acid - safer than hydrochloric acid, won´t damage chrome. clothing or carpet. .
Hydrochloric acid is harsh, use only on porcelain with extreme care and only on the worst mineral build-ups. Note: hydrochloric bowl cleaner will "melt" nylon carpet and nylon hose, so be careful. Usually found in concentrations of 9% or 23% depending on manufacturer and need.

Pumice stick (an alternative to harsh bowl cleaners for removing mineral stains and deposits)
Small telesopic mirror
Black light

Two Types of Cleaning

    There are two approaches to cleaning a toilet, as there are for any kind of cleaning. There's cleaning for appearance, in other words, cleaning when something appears dirty. Then there is cleaning for health, which is a higher level of cleaning. Cleaning for health is common sense just as eating correctly, getting enough sleep and exercise. Unfortunately common sense doesn't always equal common practice.

Toilet Cleaning Procedure for Cleaning for Health
    Before you begin to clean a toilet, gather all needed materials including personal protection equipment such as gloves and eyewear. Using a disinfectant/detergent cleaner, mixed either in a spray bottle or in a bucket (according to label instructions), spray or wipe down all hard surfaces outside of the bowl ... paying close attention to high touch areas like the toilet seat and flush handle. In order to disinfect the surfaces, the surface must remain wet for ten minutes unless the label instructions state otherwise. After the outside surfaces are wet, lower the waterline in the toilet bowl. This can be done in one of several ways.
1.) Taking your bowl swab, push the swab in and out of the trap quickly until water level drops into the trap.
2.) Using a bucket with approximately 1.5 gallons of water, pour into the toilet quickly.
3.) Turn the water to the toilet off and flush the toilet.
4.) Use a toilet plunger and force the water down and out of the trap. After the water level has been dropped, spray the inside surfaces of the toilet bowl. Again, to totally disinfect the toilet, the surface must remain wet for ten minutes unless stated otherwise on the label. Using your bowl swab, begin swabbing under the rim and working down into the trap. After the appropriate time, flush the toilet and then go back and wipe down the outside surfaces including the toilet seat and handle.

Toilet Cleaning Procedure for Cleaning for Appearance
    Before you begin to clean a toilet, gather all needed materials including personal protection equipment such as gloves and eyewear. Using a disinfectant/detergent cleaner, mixed either in a spray bottle or in a bucket, spray down or wipe down all hard surfaces outside of the bowl paying close attention to high touch areas like the toilet seat and flush handle. In order to disinfect the surfaces, the surface must remain wet for ten minutes unless the label instructions state otherwise. After the outside surfaces are wet, lower the waterline in the toilet bowl. This can be done in one of several ways (see instructions above). After the water level has been dropped, apply the acid base bowl cleaner to your bowl swab. Take the bowl swab and begin swabbing under the rim working down. If there are tough stains on the bowl, a small amount of bowl cleaner may be applied to the stain. Extra bowl cleaner may also be applied to the swab and rested on top of the stain. Hard, stubborn stains can be removed with a pumice stick available from most janitor supply companies.

Other tools
    A small mirror can be used to look under the rim to detect any stubborn stains that may also be contributing to malodors.
     A Black Light used in a dark restroom will also show urine salts and missed cleaning in and around toilets as well as urinals. Urine fluoresces a dull yellow under this Black Light. Use the fluorescent type black light, not a screw-in bulb.

General Cleaning
What is the best strategy to cleaning a house or office?

What are effective strategies to clean your house and have it sparkle. Do you clean by sections or over all?

Chosen as Best Answer on Yahoo Answers.

Best Answer - Chosen by Asker

     Always gather your tools and equipment first before you start any job. Vacuum, dusting tools or cloths, rags, chemicals, trash container or liner, mop, broom, etc..

 I personally recommend the Perfect Vacuum brand of vacuum cleaner for many reasons, A good commercial vacuum will last a lifetime in a household enviroment, the perfect vacuums are very easy to repair, parts are very, very easy for any vacuum dealer to get. The perfect vac is relatively light when compared to say a "Kirby".

              Click Here for more info on Perfect Vacuums

One thing in the industry we don't do is buy an upright with attachments. If you need to do above the floor cleaning, we will use a backpack or a cannister vacuum. Uprights that have tools are poor choices for cleaning above the floor.

In the cleaning industry we have a simple saying.......

    Top to bottom - Back to Front

Moving the dirt, dust and accumulated filth from the ceiling and walls first, ceiling dusting and vertical surfaces washing/dusting is always done first.

This allows the dirt to accumulate on the floor, which in turn allows you to mop or vacuum all of it up after it has settled there.

Working your way out of a room and into the next allows you to keep your equipment together.

If you dont have one already, purchase a caddy that will hold multiple types of chemical cleaners, and always keep a trash bag or container with you.

Contrary to popular belief, no one product will clean and polish every surface. Simple Green, or Orange cleaners cannot do every job. For instance furniture polish, stainless steel polish, plexiglass cleaner, aluminum brighteners, dusting sprays (endust), and many others are needed in the course of cleaning hard surfaces.

That being said, The method you choose...i.e. whatever works best for the proper method.

How to clean Chrome

Chromium, a hard blue white metal, has a brilliant luster used as a plating on other metals. Chrome bumpers, auto body trim, appliance handles and electric fry pans are examples of chrome plating. If grease  builds up and is baked on it will burn and be hard to remove. Washing chrome plated items in greasy dishwater leaves a greasy film that will burn on.

    Always wash in sudsy water. Rinse and wipe to restore the shine. Never use abrasive cleaners on chrome as it will scratch and dull the surface. I use baking soda to remove gummy residue sprinked on a soft damp cloth or sponge. Vinegar can also be applied if you rinse and buff with a soft dry clost. Difficult spots can use a metal polish made especially for chrome and soft metals. For baked on grease on small appliances try a mixture below. Baked on grease may require several applications.

Vinegar: To clean chrome, wipe with a soft cloth dipped in undiluted white or cider vinegar.
Baby Oil: Apply baby oil with a soft cloth and polish to remove stains from chrome trim on faucets, kitchen appliances, vehicles, etc.
Aluminum Foil: Briskly scrub rust spots on car bumpers with a piece of crumpled aluminum foil, shiny side up. Also works well on the chrome shafts of golf clubs.
Chrome faucets: are easily cleaned with soapy water. Rinse and wipe dry with a paper towel to restore luster. An old toothbrush helps get deposits of dirt out from under edges of faucet. For hard-to-remove spots, use silver polish, rinse, and wipe dry.

How to clean Vinyl

(Polyvinyl Chloride Plastic)

Vinyl - Polyvinyl chloride - PVC - is thermoplastic. It may be made in a film and bags used for food wrap and micro-waving, or molded in a rigid form in containers. It is made into refrigerator gaskets, used to coat fabric for upholstery and to coat wallpaper for washability, and in making floor tile, horizontal and vertical blinds, countertops, window screens, and other items. It is used in dishwashers for lining the inside and coating the wire racks. It is not affected by most chemicals. It is strong, resists weathering and most chemicals, and may be transparent, as film.

It may have an odor when boxed so needs airing before use. Also may have an odor if not dried thoroughly before storing. Do not use moth repellents with it as they harm it. Do not put on lacquered surfaces as it may stick. It withstands moderate heat but do not expose to too much heat.

Vinyl Upholstery

Regular Cleaning
Vinyl upholstery fabrics are produced porous to allow perspiration venting and will absorb stains. Wash with mild detergent and water. Use a soft bristle brush for stubborn soil. Rinse and dry. Some household cleaners and solvents remove plasticizers from vinyl, making them brittle. Abrasive cleaners scratch the smooth surface. Sometime letting detergent solution stand on surface and "soak" a few minutes loosens soil.

Special Cleaning
Vinyl cleaners sold in furniture stores or auto stores help clean stubborn soil on vinyl upholstery. Vinyl upholstery will absorb stains and dye from fabrics that crock or bleed (like crocking blue jeans on white vinyl or bright prints that bleed). A vinyl protective finish, sold at same stores, helps protect upholstery and resists or retards absorption of stains. Act at once to remove stains from vinyl. Use a white cloth or paper towels. Keep solvents away from wood or metal parts. When solvents other than water are used to remove a stain, wash the area with detergent and water, rinse and dry. Nail polish and polish remover will cause permanent damage if left on the surface. Wipe off quickly. Blot; do not spread the liquid. Sponge lightly with synthetic turpentine or mineral spirits. While nail polish remover or amyl acetate will remove polish, both may affect the vinyl. Use them only if necessary at you own risk.

Ballpoint pen marks may respond to alcohol. If not, cover area with a white cloth soaked in a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide and leave from 30 minutes to overnight.

Felt tip markers may respond to treatment with mineral spirits.

Remove substances such as oil paint, shoe heel marks, ink, tar, crayon, grease, shoe polish, ointment and cosmetics with synthetic turpentine or mineral spirits. Use hydrogen peroxide bleach treatment if necessary.

Chewing gum should be hardened with ice and chipped off. Remove residue with synthetic turpentine or mineral spirits.

When using solvents suggested in above (turpentine or mineral spirits) use only in a well- ventilated room and avoid breathing fumes or getting on your skin. Be sure there is no flame, spark, pilot light, or cigarette in area, as they are flammable. Air out cloths used, to evaporate solvent before disposing.

Windows & Glass
What is the easiest way to clean windows?

Chosen best answer on Yahoo Answers



20+ years in the janitorial supply business

The easiest way to clean windows....

 Mix together 1 teaspoon of joy 1 gallon of water 8 ounces of Isopropyl Alcohol using a window applicator or window brush apply solution liberally on window. using a 8", 10", 12", 14", 16" or 18" professional window (either brass or stainless steel)squeegee in a single motion making sweeps across the window the down then across again - from side to side. Finish wiping the excess off the window around the edges with a microfiber cloth (no lint) With this method you clean a window 50% faster than rubbing out with rags, paper towels or any other method

How do I clean my Calphalon Cookware?

Who has a great remedy for cleaning tough stains off of the sides of a stainless steel Calphalon pan?

Chosen Best Answer on Yahoo Answers- Chosen by Asker
20+ years in janitorial sales, supply and equipment.

Bar Keepers Friend, or Bon Ami powdered cleansers with a white nylon scouring pad or sponge scrubber (#63 3M pad works best). They do not contain the harsh abrasives that other cleansers do yet do a wonder ful job on stainless steel pots pans and other foodservice applications.
If the stains are still persistant, try any phosphoric acid based delimer or bowl cleaner with a #63 3M sponge/scrubber. Apply the chemical product to the sponge and rub gently on the pan, rinse with water and repeat as necessary.

How to care for wood Butcher Blocks

Wood is quite porous. Since a butcher block cannot be sealed or varnished, bacteria from meats and foodstuff is absorbed and a great place to flourish. Please follow these steps to properly maintain your butcher block:

  1. Wash well with a mild solution of clean dishwashing solution after every use, then rinse and wipe dry. Be certain that it is thoroughly dry BEFORE putting away in storage
  2. After you cut meat and poultry on it, wet it down will with a
    disinfectant cleaner(see our website) or a 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 part water solution. Allow the solution to work for approximately 10 minutes, rinse well with clean water and allow to air dry.
  3. Occasionally, deodorize surface with fresh lemon juice. Allow it to sit on surface for about 15 minutes. Then rinse, and dry.
  4. Butcher block requires an 'oiling' from time to time to keep them from getting brittle. When the block is clean and dry, use mineral oil as a coating. Apply it and allow it to sit for about an hour. Wipe away excess, clean with a mild detergent, and allow to air dry. "Butcher block" that's not used for food preparation should be oiled occasionally with any store bought product designed for oil-finished furniture..

How to care for Cast Iron Cookware

Cast iron is heavy, hard, somewhat brittle, and may break if dropped. Cast iron will oxidize (rust) if it is not seasoned. Keep and store in dry conditions to avoid rust. Items stored for a long period should have paper towels put in them to absorb moisture.

If metal has not been pre-treated, season before using for the first time. Brush unsalted fat on surfaces. Heat until grids begin to smoke. When finished, wipe out extra fat, wash in soap, and dry thoroughly. If not properly seasoned, cast iron pans will drip dark liquid into food. Cast iron is ready to use. After baking brush surfaces with a soft plastic brush or wipe gently with a paper towel while still warm to remove crumbs. Do not wash the grids or put any water on them. The seasoned surfaces darken and prevent sticking. However, if grids without a non-stick finish begin to stick, or are stained by foods being spilled on them, wash grids with warm suds, rinse, wipe dry, and re-season with unsalted fat.

Cast Iron Utensils: Store "seasoned" in a dry place. Do not put lids on pans when storing as this may increase moisture buildup. After use, wipe with paper towels, wash quickly without soaking, in hot suds, rinse; dry thoroughly at once, and wipe with a thin coating of fat or oil.

Cooked-on, Burned-on Food or Grease: Stubborn cooked-on food is best removed by soaking in hot water. Use a plastic scouring pad if necessary. Soak in a solution of 3 tablespoons of washing soda or baking soda per 1 quart of water to remove burned on food or grease. Do not scour off the seasoned finish built up on cast iron over long use. This necessitates re-seasoning of the pan.

Rust may be scoured with fine steel wool or scouring powder but re-seasoning of the utensil is necessary.

How to clean and polish Stainless Steel

What is Stainless Steel?

    During the manufacture of stainless steel, an alloy of iron (90%) and chromium (10%), a little of the chromium combines with oxygen from the atmosphere to form a hard oxide coating on the surface. This process continues in a passive form throughout the steel’s life and is what makes it “stainless;” should the finish be removed through corrosion or wear, the metal will no longer be “stainless.” It will rust just like any other steel.

Any contamination of the surface by dirt, or other material, hinders this continual oxidation process and traps corrosive agents, ultimately destroying the metal’s corrosion protection. Therefore, as noted by Sarah Aguirre in, while excessive cleaning cannot wear stainless steel out (just so long as you avoid harsh abrasives), dirt and neglect can damage the steel. The Stainless Steel Information Center, in its booklet, “Cleaning of Stainless Steel”, goes a step further in stating that the product actually thrives on frequent cleaning.

Wash Stainless Steel Regularly

I suggest cleaning it with a cloth soaked in warm water & a mild disinfectant/sanitizer solution. Dry it with a towel or cloth to prevent spots caused by minerals in the water. Wipe in the direction of any polish lines. On tougher jobs, you can use a mild phosphoric acid cleaner to the water without damaging the surface, but always rinse it thoroughly with warm water.

Other tips:

  • Brighten a steel sink by polishing with a cloth dipped in vinegar or ammonia, or sprinkle a little baking soda on a sponge, rub the sink gently, and rinse.
  • Fingerprints can be removed with glass cleaner or household ammonia. Fingerprints can be prevented by using water based/oil emulsion stainless steel cleaners & polishes.  Click here for our Aerosol Product Line.
  • Cleaners made for stainless steel minimize scratching, remove stains, and polish surfaces.

Some more tips:

  1. Take care not to spill dry dishwasher detergent on wet flatware, as this may produce dark spots.
  2. Rinse off acid, salty foods, or milk and milk products, which tend to corrode the metal, if the flatware or pots are not to be washed soon.
  3. Avoid discoloration – don’t let pans boil dry or overheat on a burner.
  4. Stainless steel pans don’t distribute heat evenly; if foods are not stirred while cooking, it tends to stick in “hot spots.”
  5. Do not use harsh abrasives or steel wool. Remove cooked-on food or grease by using a sponge with:
    1. A low-abrasion cleaning powder
    2. A paste of baking soda and water
    3. A paste of ammonia and rotten stone
  6. Place a perforated rubber or plastic mats in a stainless steel sink to reduce scratching and marking by pans and tableware.

Repairing scratches in Stainless Steel

According to the Stainless Steel Information Center, organic solvents can also be used to remove fresh fingerprints and oils and greases that have not had time to oxidize or decompose, the preferred solvent being one that does not contain chlorine. Acetone, methyl alcohol, and mineral spirits are acceptable.

Many commercial cleaners compounded from phosphates, synthetic detergents, or alkalis are available for cleaning severely soiled or stained surfaces. But the fact that a label states “for stainless steel” is not necessarily a guarantee that the product is not abrasive, not acidic, or is low in chloride, so take care.
If the steel has a hairline finish, in which the grain is continuous and runs the length of the surface, scratches may be sanded over with a light grit or pumice; otherwise, scratches should be removed only by a specialist.

How to clean Ceramic / Glass Cooktop Stoves

Glass ceramic stove tops are asthetic, chiny  clean looking, and for the most part easy to clean. These tips will help keep the smooth stove top on your electric range looking great.

Daily Cleaning and Care

Keeping your ceramic stove top looking its best starts with general, daily cleaning. Spills should be wiped up immediately, and the stove top should be cleaned after each cooking session using a soft cloth (or cleaning pad specifically made for ceramic stove tops) and the cleaner of your choice. There are products on the market specifically for ceramic stove tops, but other widely available products, such as Soft Scrub, or even regular dishwashing liquid, are also perfect for this job. I personally prefer to use a product manufactured by Spray Nine Corporation called " Glass & Stainless Steel Cleaner" on my stovetop and sides.  Simply wait until the stove top cools completely, then apply the cleaner and clean up any spills or grease that accumulated during your cooking session. Rinse the product off with a clean, damp sponge or cloth, and let it dry. Doing this daily will ensure that the stove top stays looking great.

Grime never pays

Of course, life doesn't always allow for daily cleaning of the stove. After a few cooking sessions, dried on food and grease may be covering your stove top. When this happens, the best course of action is to wipe the stove top down with whatever cleaner you usually use, and let the cleaner sit for a few minutes. Let the cleaner and the water loosen up any stubborn food and grime, then go back with a sponge and wash and rinse the way you usually would.

Stubborn, cooked-on accumulated yuck

If some of the accumulated grime just won't budge after letting the cleaning products sit for a while, you'll need to be more aggressive. The tool of choice here is a straight-edged razor blade in a safety holder (available here or at any hardware store). Hold the scraper at a 30 degree angle to the cooked on grime, and started gently working away at it. Any cooked on messes should come up fairly easily with the razor/scraper. After you have all of the solids up, go over the whole thing with your preferred stove cleaner, and your stove top will look like new. Never use a straight edge blade by itself for the obvious reasons.

Let the shine in

If your once-shiny stove top is looking dull, even after cleaning with your usual stove cleaner, it means you have a stubborn grease buildup. Spray Nine "Glass & Stainless Steel Cleaner"does a great job and is half the price of the ceramic specialty cleaners out there.

Click here for Spray Nine Glass & Stainless Steel Cleaner.

General question
Why do my kids always seem to get sick?

Q. My kids seem like they are always sick. How do I keep them from getting sick so often?

A. Parents are often frustrated by how often their children are sick, especially if they are in school or day care. It is normal for young children to have six to eight upper respiratory tract infections and two or three gastrointestinal infections each year. Children in school and day care can often have more (often called day care syndrome). As your child gets older, his immune system will strengthen and he will build up immunity to many common infections and he will get sick less often.  

To understand why your child has such frequent infections and seems like he is always sick, it can help to understand how infections are transmitted. Except for blood transmission, children are at high risk of catching illnesses caused by the methods described below because they are always putting their hands and other objects into their mouths. Also, younger children have not had the chance to build up a strong immunity to these common infections.

To prevent infections, you should teach your children and care providers to practice frequent hand-washing, especially after using the bathroom (including diaper changes) and before eating. You should also frequently wash toys and other objects that your children put in their mouth and all other surfaces and dispose of tissues after wiping or blowing your child's nose.

Other tips to help avoid catching infections include avoiding close contact with other people who are sick. Make sure that your day care has a strict policy about excluding children with contagious illnesses. This does not always help though, because most illnesses are contagious for a day or two before you even have symptoms. Once your child develops symptoms, he has probably already infected other people he has been in contact with.

Infections are caused by viruses, bacteria, and parasites and your child will get an infection from one of these agents if your child is not immune and he comes into contact with someone who already has an infection. Some infections require that you come into direct contact with the infection for it to be contagious. These include impetigo, scabies, lice, chickenpox, cold sores, ringworm and pinkeye. Frequent hand-washing and keeping infected areas covered can help prevent spread of these illnesses.

Other infections are spread by respiratory transmission, in which respiratory droplets from an infected persons lungs, nose or mouth are spread to another person. The droplets can spread through the air directly onto another person, or may land or be placed on another surface, which is then touched by another person. If that person then touches his eyes or mouth, he can become infected. Infections spread by respiratory droplets include the common cold, chickenpox, pertussis, pneumonia, the flu and many other viral illnesses.

Infections can also be spread by fecal oral transmission, which occurs when someone comes into contact with stool that is infected. A person's hands or other objects can become infected by tiny pieces of stool, especially after diaper changes. The infectious particles can then find there way into someone's mouth and cause infection. Illnesses caused in this manner include diarrhea, pinworms, and hepatitis A.

Lastly, infections can spread through contact with the blood of someone is infected with HIV, Hepatitis B or C, or cytomegalovirus.

So what can you do about it?
The ten most infectious agents on the face of the planet are the ten little grubby digits on the end of each hand.  Wash them frequently.  Do not poke them in every orifice of your body.

Hand Sanitizers are great anytime, anywhere, anyplace.

Do NOT wear any article of clothing that has not been laundered, try on a hat that has not been steamed or cleaned or sleep in any bed that has not had the linens changed.
Bed Bugs are now rampant and are becoming an ever increasing problem in the U.S.
Do not sleep under a hotel bedspread.  They rarely if ever launder them.  Ask for an extra blanket that has been laundered,

In most cases, your bathroom at home has LESS desease causing organisms than in our kitchen.   Your kitchen is the #1 source of  illness and sickness in everyday life.
ALWAYS wash cutting boards immediately after use.
Cross contamination of hard surfaces is the #1 cause of foodbourne illnesses, so clean as you cook.

In my opinion....Bleach is for laundry, Disinfectants today are much more powerful, last longer, do a more effective job in killing disease causing organisms and most disinfectant cleaning products that are either Quaternary or Phenolic based are much more cost effective.

Pine Oil products were great when your Great-Grandmother was alive, but today that is ancient technology.  Pine Oil was good back then but bad now.  It discolors surfaces, leaves a residue, quickly resoils but boy howdy does it smell good.  

Disinfectants don't have a fragrance.  Perfumes have a fragrance. Perfumes are added to disinfectants today.     Just because it does not smell "good" does not mean it isn't working.  
If you need a perfume to cover the stench or odor of an area you are cleaning, you haven't been cleaning properly.

Hand Sanitation
How to properly wash your hands

Chances are, you have been washing your own hands for quite a while. All it takes is a little soap and some water, right? Actually, there is a bit more to handwashing. Below, find out how to wash your hands correctly, and why it matters so much.

Here's Why: 

The single most important thing you can do to keep from getting sick and to stop the spread of disease-causing germs is to wash your hands often . By frequently washing your hands, you wash away germs that you may have picked up from other people or from contaminated surfaces. One of the most common ways people catch colds is by rubbing their nose or their eyes after their hands have been contaminated with the cold virus. More frequent hand washing may be able to reduce the spread of the cold virus. Some studies show that when children are carefully taught to wash their hands school absenteeism is reduced, perhaps especially when alcohol-based hand rubs are combined with handwashing.

You cannot see germs with the naked eye, so wash your hands often. Especially important times include:

  • Before, during, and after you prepare food
  • Before you eat
  • After you use the bathroom
  • After you change a diaper
  • After handling animals or animal waste
  • When your hands are dirty
  • More frequently when someone in your home is sick

Here's How: 

To properly wash your hands, follow these simple steps:

  • First wet your hands with warm water and apply liquid or lather with a clean bar of soap.
  • Next rub your hands together vigorously and scrub all surfaces. Also clean under your fingernails to help control germs and keep them trimmed and short.
  • Continue for at least 15 seconds or about the length of a little tune (for example: the first verse of Old Macdonald song). It is the soap combined with the scrubbing action that helps dislodge and remove germs.
  • Rinse your hands well and then dry them.

Note: When soap is not readily available, alcohol-based hand rubs offer a quick and easy alternative. No water is needed and studies show they’re fairly effective. But washing with soap is still the best single step you can take to prevent infection.

Pest Control
How to get rid of Mice?

How to get rid of mice

   Mice are carriers of diseases and germs. In the southwest US, mice are responsible for the "hantavirus". Getting rid of problem mice and keeping them out can be accomplished by various methods.


Discovering evidence that a mouse has invaded your home can be quite upsetting. Mice are mostly nocturnal, so they are not likely to be seen unless the infestation is severe. Mice often leave behind droppings in kitchen cabinets, pantries, drawers, and any other place they may have gone in search of food. It is important to close off the source of entry and eliminate any mice currently within the home.

Where there is one mouse there is likely to be more. According to the website article "Controlling House Mice", published by the University of Missouri, a female mouse has between five and ten litters per year with about five or six babies in each litter. The young are capable of reproducing at the age of six weeks. A mouse infestation can easily get out of control if not dealt with as soon as it is recognized.

"Controlling House Mice" says that a mouse is capable of getting through an opening only one quarter of an inch wide. It is important to check for openings where mice can gain entry. If you live in a mobile home or have a crawl space, check around plumbing pipes inside cabinets for spaces mice can get in. "Controlling House Mice" suggests using steel wool to fill in cracks and openings to temporarily keep mice out. It also says to check for openings around doors, windows, foundations, and vents.

There are various types of traps that can be used to capture or kill mice. "Controlling House Mice" recommends the use of traps if the mouse infestation is not too severe. It says that traps are advantageous since poisons can be dangerous, and with traps the dead mice can easily be located and disposed of. When poisons are used, the mice often die and are not found until there is an odor. Also, poisoned mice can pose a danger to pets who may eat them. The same article details the various traps and how they work. There is the typical spring-loaded, wood-based trap, a live trap, and a glue trap. Traps should be positioned close to the wall or cabinet where mice have been a problem. A good bait to attract mice is peanut butter. It is not easily removed without setting off the trap. It is suggested that several traps are used for more efficient mouse elimination. Live traps can trap more than one mouse at a time, and the mice can be released without harm in another location. Glue traps will hold mice with a special glue, but they can be ineffective with high temperatures or in dusty locations. It is advised to use caution when placing any traps where pets and children can access them.

"Controlling House Mice" suggests the use of poison when the problem is severe. It says that multi-dose poisons are safer to use than one dose poisons. Label directions should be followed very carefully, and poisons should not be used if there is a risk of children or pets coming in contact with them.


Click here for our rodent control products.

What can I do to make cleaning easier on me?

Stop Dirt In Its Tracks

Did you know that over 95% of all dirt found in your home or office comes from outside? Soil, dust, pollen, air pollution and many other sources get into your house and cause an endless cycle of cleaning, dusting and vacuuming. If it seems that you're continually losing this battle to the elements why not do something proactive? We suggest you enlist the following three lines of defense!


Keep the outside of your building as clean as possible. Does it not make sense to keep as much dirt as you can in the great outdoors before it enters your house? We can achieve this quite easily by keeping the areas near any entrances free of sand, dirt, small rocks and debris which is easily tracked into your house. By sweeping and cleaning your sidewalks, driveway, patio, porch, etc., on a regular basis, you will prevent a lot of indoor 'after the fact' cleaning.


Use entrance mats. Did you know that a good quality entrance mat can capture as much as a pound of dirt per square foot? This is much easier to remove from a mat than when it is spread through out your house. Use as many large, good quality, mats as possible, both indoors and outside. Also, clean them often and thoroughly.


Capture the dirt completely on the first effort. What this means is to use tools and procedures that collect and don't just scatter dust and dirt. High filtration vacuum bags, treated dusters and dust mops, clean rags, clean wash water, clean wet mops : all these will make your cleaning more effective and longer lasting. Stopping dirt in its tracks is easier if you use the three lines of defense!

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Last updated - July 2, 2009

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